{"id":3816,"date":"2011-10-03T14:50:54","date_gmt":"2011-10-03T14:50:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/uwphoto.onpressidium.com\/face-on-underwater-composition\/"},"modified":"2012-02-29T23:52:37","modified_gmt":"2012-02-29T23:52:37","slug":"face-on-underwater-composition","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/face-on-underwater-composition\/","title":{"rendered":"Face-on Composition"},"content":{"rendered":"<h1 style=\"text-align: center;\">\n\tFace-on Underwater Composition<\/h1>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">\n\tPart I in a series on underwater photography composition<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">By Scott Gietler<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"fb-root\">\n\t&nbsp;<\/div>\n<p><script src=\"https:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><script type=\"text\/javascript\" src=\"https:\/\/apis.google.com\/js\/plusone.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<div id=\"shareThis\">\n<div id=\"shareThisTitle\">\n\t\tSHARE THIS STORY<\/div>\n<div class=\"fbLike\" id=\"fb_root\">\n\t\t<fb:like action=\"like\" font=\"lucida grande\" locale=\"en_US\" show_faces=\"false\" width=\"244\"><\/fb:like><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"fbShare sharable\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"fb_share\" href=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer.php\" name=\"fb_share\" type=\"box_count\">Share<\/a><script src=\"scripts\/FB.Share\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"tweet sharable\">\n\t\t\t<iframe allowtransparency=\"true\" class=\"twitter-share-button\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"63\" id=\"tweet_frame_401083\" name=\"tweet_frame_401083\" role=\"presentation\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets\/tweet_button.html?count=vertical\" width=\"55\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<div class=\"plusone sharable\">\n\t\t\t<g:plusone size=\"tall\"><\/g:plusone><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Underwater macro photography is a wonderful hobby, and some photographers have turned an interest in photographing nudibranchs, crabs, shrimp or small fish into a lifetime pursuit.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \">Although settings and lighting can be fairly quickly mastered, composition is more of an art that takes practice and creative thinking.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \">For some subjects, the composition possibilities are endless. In this series, I want to share a few of my favorite basic <a href=\"\/underwater-photography-intermediate-composition\" target=\"_blank\">macro compositional themes<\/a>, which will hopefully give you some ideas to help you create your own unique compositions underwater.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: left;\">\n\tThe Face-on composition<\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \">The key to the face-on composition is to get the subject directly facing you, with great eye contact. You should get on level or slightly lower than the subject, and the eyes or rhinophores should be in <a href=\"\/underwater-photography-sharpness\" target=\"_blank\">sharp focus<\/a>. Fill most, but not all of the frame with the subject.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \">Use a shorter focal length like 40-60mm to get some of the background in the photo, and a <a href=\"\/macro-lenses\" target=\"_blank\">longer focal length<\/a> such as 100-105mm to isolate the subject more.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \">If your camera allows for moveable focus points, select single-point focus and move the focus point over the eyes \/ rhinophore of the subject. Use a small or large <a href=\"\/underwater-photography-aperture\" target=\"_blank\">depth of field<\/a> depending on the subject and background.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; \"><strong>Your assignment<\/strong> &#8211; get in the water and try to get some excellent face-on compositions of your own! Later this month, we&#39;ll look at a second great theme for macro underwater photography.<br \/>\n\t&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3806\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-01.jpg\" style=\"width: 471px; height: 530px;\" width=\"471\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-01.jpg 471w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-01-267x300.jpg 267w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 471px) 100vw, 471px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Hopkin&#39;s Rose nudibranch.&nbsp; 60mm. F16, 1\/100th, ISO 400. With nudibranchs, care must be taken not to over-expose the details in the rhinophores. Read about <a href=\"\/nudibranchs\" target=\"_blank\">photographing nudibranchs<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3807\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-02.jpg\" width=\"530\" height=\"352\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-02.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-02-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/>Flamboyant cuttlefish. 60mm. F11, 1\/200th, ISO 400<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3808\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-03.jpg\" width=\"402\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-03.jpg 402w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-03-228x300.jpg 228w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 402px) 100vw, 402px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Pipefish. 60mm. F14, 1\/320th, ISO 320. It may take several shots until you can see both eyes in the photo with a difficult subject like a pipefish.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3809\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-04.jpg\" width=\"530\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-04.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-04-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-04-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-04-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Goby. 105mm. F22, 1\/250th, ISO 500. This was taken with a +10 diopter. When shooting <a href=\"\/supermacro-underwater-photography\" target=\"_blank\">supermacro<\/a>, even small apertures like F22 can blur the background.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3810\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-05.jpg\" width=\"411\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-05.jpg 411w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-05-233x300.jpg 233w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Frogfish. 60mm. F14, 1\/320th, ISO 320. Take the time to make sure photos like this are as symmetrical as possible.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3811\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-06.jpg\" width=\"478\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-06.jpg 478w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-06-271x300.jpg 271w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 478px) 100vw, 478px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Fringehead. 60mm. F20, 1\/320th, ISO 100.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3812\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-07.jpg\" width=\"530\" height=\"351\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-07.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-07-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Garibaldi. 60mm. F8, 1\/320th, ISO 400<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3813\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-08.jpg\" width=\"530\" height=\"352\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-08.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-08-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Kelp bass. Nikon 60mm + 1.4x <a href=\"\/teleconverters-underwater-macro\" target=\"_blank\">teleconverter<\/a>. F18, 1\/250th, ISO 200<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3814\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-09.jpg\" width=\"379\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-09.jpg 379w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-09-215x300.jpg 215w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 379px) 100vw, 379px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Goby. 105mm. F13, 1\/125th, ISO 200<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3815\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-10.jpg\" style=\"width: 530px; height: 398px;\" width=\"530\" height=\"398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-10.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/face-on-macro-10-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Gopher rockfish. G12 in an Ikelite underwater housing with an Inon UCL-165-M67 wet lens, single Ikelite DS-125 strobe.&nbsp; F5.6, 1\/250th, ISO 800.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>\n\tFurther reading<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>\n\t\t<a href=\"\/diagonal-composition-underwater-photography\" target=\"_blank\">Part 2: Diagonal Underwater Composition<\/a><\/li>\n<li>\n<p><a href=\"\/supermacro-underwater-photography\">Supermacro underwater photography<\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p><a href=\"\/underwater-photography-strobe-positioning\">Strobe positioning for macro underwater photography<\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p><a href=\"\/macro-lenses\">Guide for choosing a 60mm or 105mm macro lens<\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p><a href=\"\/underwater-photography-more-composition-ideas\">More underwater composition ideas<\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>\n\tSupport the Underwater Photography Guide<\/h2>\n<p>Please support the Underwater Photography Guide by purchasing your underwater photography gear through our sister site, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bluewaterphotostore.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Bluewater Photo &amp; Video<\/a>. Click, or call them at (310) 633-5052 for expert advice!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bluewaterphotostore.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3093\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.uwphotographyguide.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/bluewater-photo-logo.jpg\" style=\"width: 125px; height: 57px;\" width=\"250\" height=\"113\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Face-on Underwater Composition Part I in a series on underwater photography composition By Scott Gietler &nbsp; &nbsp; SHARE THIS STORY [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3805,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sfsi_plus_gutenberg_text_before_share":"","sfsi_plus_gutenberg_show_text_before_share":"","sfsi_plus_gutenberg_icon_type":"","sfsi_plus_gutenberg_icon_alignemt":"","sfsi_plus_gutenburg_max_per_row":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"vocabulary_11":[],"vocabulary_3":[],"vocabulary_5":[79],"vocabulary_9":[],"vocabulary_6":[],"vocabulary_10":[],"vocabulary_13":[],"vocabulary_16":[],"vocabulary_4":[],"vocabulary_14":[],"vocabulary_15":[],"vocabulary_7":[],"vocabulary_1":[],"vocabulary_12":[],"vocabulary_2":[],"vocabulary_17":[],"vocabulary_18":[],"vocabulary_8":[],"class_list":["post-3816","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","vocabulary_5-technique-tutorial"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Face-on Composition - Underwater Photography Guide<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"This is another great approach to your underwater composition. 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